If you’re planning to buy a bearded dragon as a pet, you must be surrounded by a number of questions raising in your mind because of the uniqueness of their traits among reptiles and traditional pets. To help you understand the essence and intricacies of keeping a beardie, the list below can help you decide what to do precisely.
Totally! The most widely recognized suggestion for amateurs is to keep a bearded dragon. A few parts of their character and way of life are more straightforward for beginners to oversee, like their eating habits, rest timetable, and Habitat. They’re likewise substantially more social and effortlessly handled, which settles on for a breathtaking pet decision in case you want to have one.
This is a rare case, which happens mostly during hand feeding, as the beardie mistakes the finger as food or when it smells the fragrance of food on your fingers. To avoid this situation, you can utilize tongs that can be purchased at your nearby pet store to feed your beardie. Furthermore, you can wear a couple of clean planting gloves to keep your finger safe while hand-feeding your beardie.
Other than this, the rare situation when a Bearded dragon may tear into you would be the point at which they feel scared for their lives. If you’ve gotten your pet from a decent raiser, treat the beardie well, and figure out when and how it feels restless, you should have the reasons not to be nibbled. Yet, regardless of whether you endure a couple of chomps, don’t stress—they’re harmless!
Yes, the bearded dragons have a clear vision which is very useful to search for food. However, as their eyes are on the sides, they can’t have a clear perception of things with depth.
Yes! It is safe to own a bearded dragon. They are amicable and love collaborating with their owners.
You have to pursue great hygiene routines when taking care of bearded dragons and interacting with anything they have contacted. Try to wash your hands with a decent antibacterial cleanser whenever you contact the bearded dragon or any of its used things.
Avoid touching your nose, eyes, and mouth with the bearded dragon or anything from its territory. Thoroughly wash your hands first. This is particularly significant for youngsters or the older.
Never have your bearded dragon in areas in which you handle and prepare food. Make a point to clean any space of your home with Lysol (or different sanitizers) after allowing your bearded dragon to meander around the room(s). Disinfect sinks or baths after showering your bearded dragon.
Following simple hygiene and safety rules would make you utterly stress-free from any harm from the beardie.
Beardies themselves are truly beautiful and modest. Most great pet stores that sell this pet dragon charge somewhere in the range of $20 – $50 on average for each beardie. Some forte varieties can get as costly as $200 or more, depending upon the color and sort of species. Bearded dragons that are bred to have more brilliant tones are more expensive.
Costs can rely upon your nearby pet stores and accessibility.
The bearded dragons go through semi-hibernation, which is known as brumation. However, in captive beardies, some might not have a brumation cycle, but most of them do. The reason behind brumation is hormones within your dragon.
The expense of keeping a Bearded dragon will rely enormously upon your budget. When you have the bearded dragon’s home set up, working the everyday costs are exceptionally reasonable – simply all that you supply is food and water.
The advance expenses for an enclosure, warming system and lighting hardware, and terrarium stylistic theme ordinarily run from just $200 to as much as $800, simply relies upon how extravagant you get. These are typically only one-time costs except for light and warmth bulbs.
The highest price will be the nook that is the enclosure for your beardie. You can deal with a tight financial plan by building your custom enclosure, and utilizing Tupperware bowl tops as water and food bowls, as examples.
Feeding costs will commonly run between $10 to $30 per week for insects and veggie blends. You ought to be prepared for spending about $200 each year on veterinarian costs.
Yes, all bearded dragons do. There is a considerable risk for getting from handling eggs than from your bearded dragon. It’s better to wash your hands after coming in contact with a bearded dragon.
You ought to be prepared for spending at most an hour with your beardie every day. You are required to maintain the lighting and warming occasions (useful clock functions admirably to control these). Prepare and provide food a few times each day, clean any extra food and any dung in the terrarium, and set aside some effort to fog your bearded dragon. You must spend at least some time interacting with your beardie every day.
You may have to put in several hours to clean and disinfect the terrarium at the end of the week to keep up an excellent terrarium for your beardie.
Yes, the beardies do shed occasionally. The frequency of shedding is greater in the young bearded dragons as compared to the adults. The reason behind frequent shedding in young beardies is their growth factor; as the young beardies keep growing, they need to regenerate the new skin, which can be done by shedding.
It’s effortless to keep bearded dragons; however, you will require some specific equipment to keep them healthy and cheerful. Fundamentals include:
Enclosure (or terrarium, tank, and so on)
Substrate (terrarium flooring)
Thermometers (a couple)
Hygrometer (to measure humidity)
Food and water bowls
Decor (rocks, counterfeit plants, and so on)
Food (creepy crawlies, organic products, vegetables)
Tolerance and love
Powdered food supplements
The predators of bearded dragons include enormous lizards, birds, giant snakes, and dogs.
A lot of books are recommended to get complete knowledge about bearded dragons. Some recommended books are The bearded dragon secret manual, which covers all aspects, including habitat, food, and other requirements of a bearded dragon.
The bearded dragon manual by Phillippe de Vosjoli and Robert Mailloux: is also an excellent guide for keeping a bearded dragon. It’s a must-have for people who want to keep a bearded dragon.
Bearded dragon( Complete pet owners’ manual) by Manfred Au: is a complete guide that provides a step-by-step procedure for handling and taking care of a beardie.
Bearded Dragons: A Complete Guide To Pogona Vitticeps (Complete Herp Care) by Phillip Purser: This book is highly recommended and loved by many bearded dragon owners, as it provides reliable information about keeping bearded dragon.
The diet of bearded dragons contains a wide range of insects and plants when kept as a pet. The most widely recognized insects that a beardie ought to be fed are Crickets, cockroaches, etc.
These feeder bugs must be bought from trustworthy pet stores. Never feed wild-got insects running around your house to your beardie, which might cause health issues in the bearded dragon.
Bearded dragons ought to be fed different types of plants and greens.
The insects that should be fed to a bearded dragon are listed below:
Mealworms (some of the time)
It’s important to add fruits and veggies to the diet of your bearded dragon. A list of the recommended fruits and veggies is given below.
You should mix some vegetables with the greens:
No, You must not feed your bearded dragon any insects caught running around your house or wild insects, as they might be in contact with the chemicals from the lawn and can bring bacteria to your beardie.
It’s suggested to purchase feeders from a well-reputed pet store to avoid any health issues in your reptile.
Feeding recurrence will rely upon the age of the bearded dragon and can be distinctive for every person. A specific bearded dragon can eat pretty much than another beardie.
Usually, young bearded dragons ought to gobble small meals up to five times each day, while a grown-up may just be fed two times every day. The meals will reduce in number as the bearded dragon continues to grow.
No, Lettuce doesn’t contain any generous dietary benefit and must be kept away from the bearded dragons. Additionally, lettuce has a high centralization of water, which can cause diarrhea and other stomach-related problems if fed a great deal. It’s better to add staple greens, for example, dandelion greens, mustard greens, or collard greens, to the diet of your bearded dragon.
Gut loading is a procedure in which the nutrition you want to add to your beardie’s diet should be fed to the feeder insects, which passes down the essential nutrients to your bearded dragon.
The feeders you get from the pet stores are usually malnourished, so you must charge them with nutrients before feeding them to the bearded dragon. Feeding insects to your bearded dragon without gut-loading is shallow feeding and doesn’t fulfill the required level of nutrients. Gut-loading has very positive aspects on the health of the beardie.
Bearded dragons ordinarily get all the nutrients and minerals when they are in the wild.
The bearded dragons who are kept captive must have a diet that must be sufficient to supply every one of the nutrients and minerals needed in captivity. This is the reason why you must enhance your bearded dragon’s eating routine with nutrient and mineral powders.
The main mineral to supply is calcium with nutrient D3. This enhancement assists with solid bone development and growth.
Another enhancement that you should add to the eating routine is Herptivite Mineral Supplement. This enhancement adds other fundamental nutrients and minerals for great well-being.
Yes! Bearded dragon can’t, for the most part, recognize standing water ( in a bowl), so they ordinarily don’t drink any because they can’t see it. Yet, you should, in any case, offer new, dechlorinated water each day. They will here and there discover the bowl “unintentionally” and lay in the water to hydrate and take a beverage. It’s vital to keep the bearded dragon as hydrated as could be expected.
Regardless of whether your bearded dragon never drinks from the bowl, you should, in any case, have it accessible for them simply in case they need it.
You should utilize a terrarium that is, at any rate, three times the length of the bearded dragon, generally.
You should house a grown-up bearded dragon in a 100 gallon-sized terrarium as a base. Around 120 gallon terrarium would be ideal. You can begin with a more modest terrarium for a young bearded dragon if you like; however, you need to buy bigger terrariums as it grows ceaselessly. It usually’s best, in the first place, to start with terrariums that are appropriate for a grown-up, so you don’t have to upgrade it with time.
These reptiles are habitants of dry and hot areas of the Australian Outback, so they are viewed as desert reptiles. Since their indigenous habitat is a hot spot, we should give them a similar climate in imprisonment. Bearded dragons require a warm area for basking with a temperature gradient across the terrarium.
The basking disk for a young bearded dragon ought to be kept warm enough from 95°F to 110°F, while the coolest region ought to be kept around 80°F to 85°F. Evening time temperatures ought to never plunge beneath 80° in the whole enclosure. Generally, 85°F is an ideal cool zone and evening temperature.
A basking area for a juvenile bearded dragon ought to be somewhat cooler, going from 95° to 105°, while the cool zone must be around equivalent to a young bearded dragon’s.
The basking area for Grown-up bearded dragons should be marginally cooler, going from 90°F to around 95°F. The cool zone should, in any case, go from 80°F to 85°F.
It is suggested to use a thermometer in the basking area and another on the contrary side in the cool spot to screen temperatures. Never think about what the temperatures are. You don’t need your bearded dragon to be excessively cool or warm.
Keep in mind – never let the terrarium get beneath 80°F and never let it get above 110°F.
Yes. You should supply full-spectrum lighting to your bearded dragon; in nature, bearded dragons get standard UVB radiation from the sun UVB beams transmitted from the sun are vital for the combination of nutrient D3 in the skin. Nutrient D3 is essential for the digestion of calcium. Without good UVB exposure, the calcium won’t digest, and the bearded dragons will turn out to be sick and perhaps die prematurely. Insufficient exposure to UVB lighting is probably the greatest supporter of Metabolic Bone Disease in the bearded dragon kept captive.
You need specific reptile bulbs to give UVB radiation, and these bulbs come in a few distinct structures:
Mercury Vapor Bulbs
Compact Fluorescent bulbs
The three recorded above are the most broadly used full-spectrum bulbs used by bearded dragon owners.
Totally! Indeed, we suggest you use two thermometers inside the terrarium. One ought to consistently have a thermometer situated in the relaxing territory to screen the basking temperatures. You need to ensure your bearded dragon is getting much heat for basking, and then again, you need to ensure the temperatures don’t get excessively high.
It is ideal to find a thermometer on the contrary side of the terrarium in the cool zone. Having a thermometer here will assist with deciding whether the cooler zone is excessively warm or excessively cool. You need to make a decent temperature angle across the terrarium. There could be no more excellent approach to do this than by having thermometers on the two ends.
It is an additional amazing approach to put a hygrometer that measures the humidity levels in the terrarium. Spot the hygrometer towards the focal point of the terrarium (away from the basking light) for the most precise readings. You can utilize thermometer-hygrometer combo checks to quantify both temperature and humidity simultaneously.
It is suggested to get high-quality thermometers for measuring the temperature inside the terrarium. Do not rely on guessing the temperature as it can have a horrible consequence for your beardie.
Using the best substrate for your bearded dragon is a tricky question to answer, which has multiple answers. It is suggested not to use loose particle substrates such as Calci-sand and Repti sand for young and juvenile bearded dragons.
Bearded dragons can unintentionally swallow sand which could result in impaction issues in the long run. You can utilize these substrates for grown-up bearded dragons, yet it is suggested to take care of them in a different, void enclosure to reduce the danger.
The best substrates for beardies are reptile carpet liners and newspapers. These two can be found at any home improvement store.
Yes, you can put live plants in the enclosure of your bearded dragon; however, it’s not suggested to do so. Beardies eat plants as well as insects, which makes them omnivores. If you would place live plants in their enclosure, it would automatically end up eaten by the beardie. The plants won’t survive in the terrarium for more than one or two weeks.
It’s a better approach to use artificial plants, which are easy to maintain and more attractive.
A list of live plants, which can anyway be used inside the terrarium, is below.
It is suggested to have your beardie checked by a vet soon after bringing it home. The checkup will ensure the presence of parasites, if any, normal organs functioning, blood calcium level, and overall health of the bearded dragon.
Furthermore, taking your beardie for regular or annual checkups will prevent any sort of health issues from arising. Also, if your beardie is showing sickness symptoms, you should have it checked by a vet at the earliest.
In captivity, the bearded dragons might encounter some health issues, which include:
Infections: because of unclean housing and inadequate temperature arrangements.
Metabolic Bones Disease: This happens when the bearded dragon has a deficiency of UVB lighting and calcium. The reason behind this illness is the blocking of the digestive system from swallowing indigestible particles.
These are only some diseases that your beardie might get; it’s suggested to provide adequate heat, light, and nutrients to avoid any health issues in your beardie.
If you have newly bought the bearded dragon, it’s better to leave him alone for some time. This would provide enough time for the beardie to adjust to the new environment and home. Attempting to hold the bearded dragon too frequently will raise the stress level, which will have serious repercussions.
Yes, you can bathe your bearded dragon with warm water once a week. It helps in the maintenance of good hygiene and cleanliness of the beardie. Furthermore, cleaning your bearded dragon regularly will help in bowel movement.
It is suggested to use dechlorinated warm water with a bit of reptile conditioner for bathing your bearded dragon. The temperature of water to be used has to be somewhere between 85F to 92F to ensure that the beardie stays warm and cozy. In addition to this, the depth of water must not be more than the knee joints on beardies limbs.
To answer this question, you need to examine femoral pores on the adults, along the inside of hind legs. More pronounced femoral pores are an indication of a male bearded dragon; in the other case, it shows a female bearded dragon.